Maggie Cobbett

Mardi Gras in New Orleans finally ticked off my bucket list!

Having always wanted to experience Mardi Gras in New Orleans, I finally made it this year, flying there from Manchester via a snowy New York !  The city was awash with the carnival colours of ‘purple for justice, green for faith and gold for power’ and I had the nails to match. Thank you, Studio 6!

The motto of Mardi Gras is ‘Laissez les bons temps rouler’ (Let the good times roll) and that was certainly the case.

The days were sunny and warm, every building in the French Quarter was decorated and strings of beads cascaded down from the wrought iron balconies into the eager hands of the crowds below.

Following a recommendation by publisher John Jarrold, who knows New Orleans very well, we stayed at the 3* Prince Conti. Although only just round the corner from the famous (or infamous, depending on your point of view) Bourbon Street, the suites (!) we’d chosen at the back of the hotel were quiet and had every comfort. Pushing the boat out isn’t generally a feature of Cobbett economics, but this was a very special trip and the purse strings were relaxed for once. We only had four full days and were determined to make the most of it.

N.B. On my only previous visit to New Orleans  I was a 20 year old student, it was during a hot steamy August week and all about the jazz. Four of us shared the cheapest room we could find, sat on the pavement outside Preservation Hall and existed on a diet of fries washed down with bottles of Dr Pepper. What a joy it was this year to be able to afford decent accommodation and food!

How about this for a breakfast, chosen from a very comprehensive menu at Café Conti and accompanied by jazz in the background?

Sampling the famous doughnuts (beignets) at Café du Monde was also a must.

Eating one without getting our clothes covered in icing sugar was a challenge we failed and I was the only one to try the chicory-flavoured café au lait. Here’s a tip! Don’t order a large anything in New Orleans unless you really mean it!

Several of the places recommended for dinner were either closed during Mardi Gras week or impossibly crowded, but The Bombay Club next to our hotel had a great atmosphere and good food for carnivores. As the odd one out, the pesky vegetarian, I didn’t have much to choose from, but the pecan pesto tagliatelle was delicious and the drinks menu excellent. I’d certainly recommend the dry Martinis and  Cocktail à la Louisiane.

If I mention that Sucré on Conti Street is probably the New Orleans equivalent of Bettys, my Yorkshire friends will know exactly what I mean and not be surprised that the price of a plate of petits fours in the restaurant made us blanch. However…

With limited time and many attractions closed down for Mardi Gras week, we confined ourselves mainly to the French Quarter but still found plenty to see without getting parade fatigue. (Every morning, afternoon and evening featured different ones, all listed in The Times-Picayune.) The area is quite compact and it was easy to walk down to Jackson Square.

From there, it’s a short walk to the ferry across the Mississippi to the neighbourhood of Algiers on the West Bank. It’s the second oldest part of New Orleans and has a separate small town feel. The statue of Louis Armstrong, very similar to the one in the airport named after him, dominates the skyline.

We also made our way up to Louis Armstrong Park and through to Saint Louis Number One cemetery.

The high water table in the area makes it necessary to build tombs above ground. Some are well maintained, others in a state of disrepair and the most frequently visited that of Marie Laveau, the famous Voodoo Queen of New Orleans.

We also saw the giant pyramid tomb bought by Nicholas Cage to house his own remains when the time comes. Apparently some of his fans already kiss it. We didn’t.

The Voodoo Museum on Dumaine Street, although small, is well worth a visit. The staff know what they’re talking about and the items in the gift shop are authentic. This contrasts sharply with a lot of kitsch to be found elsewhere.

Originally from West Africa and arriving in Louisiana in 1719 with the first slaves, voodoo soon became entwined with Catholicism.

However sinister voodoo may appear, practitioners are keen to point out that their spells are rarely intended to do any harm.

Dolls such as these are designed to be used for Gris-Gris (magic) when a picture of the target, hair, nail clippings or a piece of clothing are is attached to them.

Many voodoo practitioners and visitors leave small personal objects on the altars, some VERY personal. I spotted a lone tampon – unused – in one collection!

There are plenty of alligators in the Louisiana swamps.

A priestess is called a Queen and the sight of one dancing round with a python held over her head must be impressive. From the early 19th century, Voodoo dances in Congo Square (now Louis Armstrong Park) were a regular Sunday event.

The voodoo doll I bought, made of swamp moss and complete with instructions and sharp pin, may come in handy one day.

The Zulu crewe held a huge and completely free music festival in Woldenberg Park on the eve of Mardi Gras itself. 60% of the people of New Orleans are black (with 30% white and 10% ‘other’) and I think most of them were there that afternoon.

Fans were queuing up to meet and follow their favourite Zulu characters.

However, the parades were what we’d mostly come to see and we certainly weren’t disappointed.

I can well believe that it takes a whole year to decorate all the floats.

A helpful taxi driver told us that they’re financed by big business, members of the various ‘krewes’ paying their dues and those keen to ride on them contributing large amounts for the privilege.

Not wishing to be crushed by the crowds, we’d booked places in the grandstand outside the Lafayette Hotel on Saint Charles Avenue for three of them – Bacchus, Proteus & Orpheus and Zulu. Each had very many floats, interspersed with marching bands, and went on for hours.

Watching the techniques employed by some families afforded us considerable amusement. Many had stepladders with boxes on top, the better to see the parade and grab as many ‘throws’ as possible. (No wonder they’re generally known as ‘greed beads’.) The gentleman in the photo, his beer cooler safely stashed below the step ladder, had his family team fully deployed to pass any they caught up to him. Incidentally, the curtain to the left is there to preserve the modesty of anyone in the grandstand wishing to use the portaloo behind.

I can’t claim superiority and deny that we weren’t out for our fair share. The evenings were quite chilly, by the way, something we hadn’t really bargained for.

Back at the hotel, we were quite dazzled by all our shiny beads and the collection continued to grow!

Our suitcases only just made it when they were weighed at the Louis Armstrong Airport on our way home via Atlanta.

Colourful beads are, of course, the main ‘throws’, but I was also pleased with these extra items, particularly one of the much coveted drained and hand painted coconuts from the Zulu crewe. The ball came courtesy of Mr Dorian Rawles, Zulu Mayor 2016.

Who could resist coming away with a Mardi Gras mask? Well, I couldn’t.

Now, we just need to get over the jet lag!

12 February, 2016 - Make the first comment on this story

Happy New Year!

“Now is the accepted time to make your regular annual good resolutions. Next week you can begin paving hell with them as usual.” Mark Twain

All right, so we’re already halfway through January, but last month’s accident (see below) has  slowed me down considerably. Still not able to get back to dancing for the foreseeable future, I’m nevertheless determined to regain my mojo and keep to my own new year’s resolution. What is it? Whenever something particularly unpleasant needs to be done, do it straight away. The day will immediately feel much better!

Sales of my novel Shadows of the Past continue to go well and I was delighted to give a talk about the inspiration behind it to Ripon U3A Book Group on Thursday. One lady made a very valid point about the blurb on the back, which I shall certainly bear in mind for the next edition. Otherwise, all the comments were favourable and I left the session in a happy glow.

Pride comes before a fall, though, and my first short story submission of 2016 was rejected in the shortest space of time ever. Bloody but unbowed, I must admit that the fiction editor’s criticism that too large chunks were told not shown was justified, although I didn’t agree with all her other comments. However, she is the keeper of the door through which so many of us compete to pass, so I shall take them on the chin as usual and try again. Past acceptances have proved that I CAN reach the standard she requires.

Back to the drawing board now. Another story is brewing!

17 January, 2016 - There are 2 comments on this story

Reasons to be jolly despite the injured foot!

All decorated for Christmas! If the photo looks much the same as in previous years, that’s because we tend to follow a well oiled routine.

Santa was given to my parents before I was born and, put in pride of place on the tree each year, even outranks the angel!

We were at a friend’s surprise birthday party on Friday and, for once, it really was a surprise. Planned many weeks ahead, the whole affair had been very well kept under wraps and it’s a miracle to me that the birthday girl didn’t find out beforehand. I had to sit out and watch everyone else dance, which was a little frustrating, but it was good to see them all enjoying themselves.

The following evening saw us at our Strictly Salsa class’s Christmas party, at which I was once again mainly an observer. However, the huge buffet (of which you can only see a small part in the photo) and the opportunity to catch up with many dancing friends was a great consolation.

21 December, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story

The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft agley…

Never was a truer word written. The run up to Christmas was going well for me, if we discount the heavy cold and touch of sinusitis that kept me in bed for a whole weekend.

Last Tuesday evening saw Ripon Writers’ Group’s Christmas event at The Old Deanery, which was as much fun as ever, especially when the pudding spoon turned out to be too large to fit into the glass of chocolate gunk and then got stuck. Despite feeling a little blurry, I managed to take my turn at reading out a limerick composed for the occasion. OK, so it would make Robert Burns cringe, but here you are:

It’s the month Santa’s reindeer all dread,
Being hitched up to that great heavy sled.
“Take a break,” they all whine,
 “And use snail mail this time,
Then we can spend Christmas in bed.”

There were many better contributions to the evening’s entertainment, including an ‘easy peasy quiz’ that turned out to be anything but. Link to RWG’s website on the right if you’d like to know more about it all.

An equally cheery gathering two days later at the same venue introduced me to members of the U3A Book Group, whose choice for January 2016 is my novel ‘Shadows of the Past’. This is the second year that they and the Spanish group, who meet on the same day of the week, have got together for Christmas lunch and long may it continue!

Nemesis caught up with me on Friday. Insanely happy to have thrown off the cold, although still feeling that someone may have karate chopped the bridge of my nose, I set off for York. My main aim was to have lunch with a fellow member of York Writers, but I thought I could also knock a few items off my Christmas shopping list. All went well until I was strolling down Goodramgate – not hastening, STROLLING – when my left foot twisted on the wet road surface and I crashed to the ground. Shopping went one way, handbag another, both to be rescued by a kind couple who picked me up and stayed with me until assured that no bones were broken. I made it to King’s Square to meet my lunch companion and eventually home, although it was definitely a case of mind over matter as the foot I’d twisted was very painful. The reason for this was revealed later on when I took off my boot to inspect the comprehensive bruising, which was mirrored by that all up the side onto which I fell.Another weekend in bed followed and I’m only just beginning to get back to something resembling normal. One big regret is having to miss the annual Ripon Activity Project party on Saturday, but at least it seems to have gone very well without my input!

14 December, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story

Tis the season to be jolly!

Yes indeed, although someone needs to tell that to the folk at the Met Office. OK, so it isn’t really their fault that we’re having dark skies and far more than our share of rain at the moment, but someone has to be blamed! I’m not ready for Christmas yet, but my mannequin friend Caroline is getting there. I just wish that I could replace her Victoria Beckham style stare with a cheery smile!

So far this month, I’ve been to two very different Christmas celebrations. The first was for York Writers and took place in the upstairs room of Brigantes on Micklegate.

There was a good turn out and choice of food and I particularly enjoyed the Black Forest trifle. Afterwards, we all slumped over our full stomachs to hear Tracy Rees bring us up to date on what she’s been doing since winning the Richard & Judy first novel award last year for Amy Snow. As a former member of YW, Tracy knows how proud we all are of her achievement and she obviously took pleasure in telling us a little about her new novel, details of which are still largely under wraps.

On Thursday evening, I was in The Golden Lion in Ripon for the Oxfam shop volunteers’ Christmas dinner. About 30 of us sat down to a three course meal followed by a Power Point presentation about the Oxfam Unwrapped scheme and the benefits it provides to communities in different parts of the world.

Next week, I have three functions to look forward to, two of them at The Old Deanery opposite Ripon Cathedral. The first is for Ripon Writers and I have yet to think up a couple of seasonal limericks to read out before the meal. The second is a joint meal for the Ripon U3A Spanish and Book groups and promises to be good fun.

In between, I’ve got two days ‘on set’ in a certain fictional Yorkshire village, so I’m going to be rather tired by next Saturday, especially if I don’t manage to throw off a very inconvenient cold! That will be just in time for the Ripon Activity Project’s Christmas party and RAP’s Got Talent competition at the Bowling Club. Yikes!

5 December, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story

Well worth the aching feet!

What a week this has been! It began last Friday evening with the traditional Strictly Salsa party to celebrate Halloween. The costumes get better every year and 2015 saw as gruesome a bunch of individuals as you’d ever hope to meet – or not! See if you can spot me.

The weekend was family time with a visiting cousin and her husband from the other side of the Pennines. Fountains Abbey beckoned and we hoofed it all the way from the Visitors’ Centre car park to the far end of the Seven Bridges Walk – and back. The following day was devoted to a whistle stop tour of Ripon and they’re looking forward to getting to know our little city better on their next visit.

Tuesday saw me with a friend at the Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle to attend the Yves Saint Laurent exhibition. It was fabulous, but I was even more captivated by the 18th century musical automaton of the Silver Swan. The crowd that gathered round to see it in action – only once a day now at 2 p.m. – was proof that I’m not alone in that. The whole performance only lasts about 30 seconds or so but is very well worth the wait.

To quote from the Museum’s website:

How The Silver Swan Works

The swan is life-size and is controlled by three separate clockwork mechanisms. The Silver Swan rests on a stream made of twisted glass rods interspersed with silver fish. When the mechanism is wound up, the glass rods rotate, the music begins, and the Swan twists its head to the left and right and appears to preen its back. It then appears to sight a fish in the water below and bends down to catch it, which it then swallows as the music stops and it resumes its upright position.

6 November, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story

Short Story Writing Workshop in York

Photograph: Copyright D.C.Thomson

Many Yorkshire based writers have been frustrated by the fact that ‘how to’ workshops run by popular magazines are generally based hundreds of miles away from their homes. Well, Thursday 22nd October was serendipity for some of us. The People’s Friend came to York.

From 10 o’clock in the morning until half past four in the afternoon, the time just whizzed by. We were greeted by Fiction Editor Shirley Blair who spoke at length about how to write a story suitable for TPF and laid many misconceptions to rest. She explained how the magazine, while remaining family friendly, aims to reflects life as it is today, albeit with the edges rubbed off. While its stories will never be edgy or risqué, they will continue to push the boundaries. Prolific writer Kate Blackadder shared with us how she finds inspiration and structures her stories.

With its weekly magazine, fiction specials and annual, TPF accepts 600 stories a year, far more than any other magazine, and every one is carefully considered. Feedback always aims to be constructive and that has certainly been my experience.

Both ladies set us exercises and the whole room was buzzing with ideas as we scribbled furiously in our new notebooks. By the time I left, I had at least half a dozen ideas in my head for plots and could hardly wait to get back home to my computer. Thank you, Shirley and Kate, for a most stimulating day.

I can’t finish this post without saying how much I enjoyed meeting so many fellow writers, none of whom were known to me ‘in the flesh’ before. Networking is always a pleasure and I’m sure that we’ll keep in touch.

26 October, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story

Up, Up And Away!

With most of my focus lately being on my first novel, short stories have taken something of a back seat. However, this thinly disguised account of my one and only ride in a hot air balloon is in the latest Fiction Special (No. 113) issued by The People’s Friend.

11 October, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story

Guesting on Iain Pattison’s blog

It’s always an honour to appear as a guest on another writer’s blog and I was particularly pleased to accept Iain Pattison’s invitation.

Our paths first crossed when  Iain, as a highly respected competition judge, was a main speaker at the Writers’ Summer School (Swanwick). I now know him also as a prolific writer of short stories who can never resist a good (or even a bad) pun.

Iain asked me to write about my recent transition from short story writer to novelist and TO MAKE IT FUNNY. I hope that I’ve fulfilled my brief  with ‘From a hundred-metre dash to a marathon’, but you can judge for yourself by cutting and pasting  http://www.iainpattison.co.uk/give-a-warm-welcome-to-my-first-guest-blogger/#more-469

It begins with a few of Iain’s own words:

I’m off on holiday – what, I hear you cry, another one! And it’s not that I don’t trust you, but I’m wary of leaving my blog unguarded for just any passing scribbler to wander into and start posting. So good friend Maggie Cobbett has offered to keep an eye on the place and water the dogs and take the plants for a walk.Thanks Maggie – help yourself to anything in the fridge, but I’d avoid the cheese. It wasn’t that colour when we bought it!

In this guest blog she talks about the challenges of making the leap from short story writer to debut novelist and reveals how a rather bizarre teenage holiday in France provided her with loads of memorable, if slightly disturbing, material. Over to you, Maggie…

8 October, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story

OAPSchat

A website dedicated to people ‘of a certain age’ has offered me the opportunity to share the origins of my recently published novel with its members.  By cutting and pasting the address below, you will be able to read what I have written about it and see some previously unpublished photographs:

http://www.oapschat.co.uk/10-lifestyle/hobbies/714-shadows-of-the-past

In return for this opportunity, I have been more than happy to donate a signed copy of Shadows of the Past as a raffle prize and very much hope that the winner enjoys it.

6 October, 2015 - Make the first comment on this story